As Oregon’s berry season unfolds, breeder’s work is worth savoring
By Eric Mortenson
Capital Press
FOREST GROVE, Ore. — Jim Love can’t help but admire the Marion blackberries now gaining color at Love Farms, which he owns with his brother, John. They planted this particular block in 1965 with their father, and it’s the oldest remaining block among the 75 acres of Marions they tend and harvest.
Their dad, Melvin “Peck” Love, actually started the farm’s transition to Marions in 1961 after visiting a neighbor who was growing a relatively new variety released by the USDA berry breeder stationed in Corvallis. “That thing is a really good berry,” Peck Love announced when he returned. “I think we’re going to plant some.”
All these years later and Marion blackberries — also known as Marionberries — keep coming on: Good-sized, juicy, deep purple to intense black and better tasting than any other blackberry, before or since. A marketing campaign once described them as the “Cabernet of blackberries.”
New varieties, thornless and more cold-hardy, may eventually surpass Marions, Jim Love said, but he suspects they will always retain a market niche among growers and consumers.
“George Waldo did a good job when he developed these originally,” Love said. “Hoods were the same way. Golly, that was our main berry for a long time.”
It is those two iconic varieties — Marion blackberries and Hood strawberries — that established Oregon as a premier berry state, today ranking first nationally in blackberry production, third in raspberries and strawberries and fourth in blueberries and cranberries.
And as the state harvests its array of berries this summer — crops with an annual farmgate value approaching $200 million — it can give a tip of the field cap to that berry breeder, George Fordyce Waldo, a quiet man who worked with the straight-laced fervor of a berry evangelist.
In a 33-year career with the USDA’s Agricultural Research Service in Corvallis, working in partnership with horticulturists at Oregon State University, Waldo bred and introduced the state’s best known, even beloved, berry varieties.
In 1943 he released the Willamette raspberry, which was widely planted for 50 years. He crossed strawberry selections OSC 2315 and Puget Beauty to produce Hoods, which were released in 1965 and retain something of a cult following among consumers for their color and outstanding flavor.
Marions were destined to be his most enduring, commercially successful work. Drawing in part from the invasive Himalaya blackberry that takes over rural hillsides and empty city lots, Waldo developed the trailing blackberry cultivars Chehalem and Olallie and crossed them in 1945 to produce what was first called OSC 928. He released it as Marion in 1956, naming it for the county where most of the test plantings had occurred.
Marions, which like other trailing blackberries are grown on a trellis system, rapidly replaced Evergreens, an upright variety that couldn’t compete with Marion’s flavor. Trailing blackberries also have smaller seeds, which don’t have to be removed during processing, and are more aromatic than erect blackberries.
At its height of popularity, Marions made up half of Oregon’s blackberry acreage. In 2014, Marions alone accounted for $19 million in farmgate value.
Chad Finn, a USDA-ARS research geneticist who now holds Waldo’s berry breeder position in Corvallis, said much of Waldo’s work was “classical plant breeding,” which is “always a combination of art and science.”
Waldo understood the inheritance of plant traits, and had to be able to recognize which berry selections would make good parents, Finn said. He said Waldo’s work in developing trailing blackberries may be overlooked.
“One of the things that I think is lost, really, is that he created a whole crop that never existed before,” Finn said. “That’s remarkable. We would be dead in the water without him or somebody like him.”
George Waldo probably wouldn’t have described himself that way. Finn, the USDA breeder now on station in Corvallis, has studied the work of his predecessors and said Waldo strikes him as a reserved man who didn’t seek the limelight.
Jim Love, the Forest Grove berry grower, said he occasionally saw Waldo in the halls at Oregon State University when Love, now 73, was a student there in the 1960s. Waldo appeared quiet and business-like, Love said.
Waldo was a longtime member of the Corvallis First Baptist Church, and of Gideons International, the group that leaves Bibles in motel rooms. According to one story, when Waldo and associates would tour growers’ fields and stop for lunch, Waldo wouldn’t eat at a place that served beer.
Waldo was born Dec. 2, 1898, in North Dakota, and moved with his family to Oregon in 1913. He graduated from what was then Oregon Agricultural College in 1922 and earned a master’s degree in science from Michigan State University in 1926.
He was hired by USDA and in 1932 was able to return to Corvallis to work in “small fruit investigations” at the experiment station, a partnership of USDA-ARS and Oregon State.
That formal partnership — coupling innovative USDA berry breeders with university horticulturists — is the only one of its kind in the world, said Bernadine Strik, OSU Extension berry crops professor and the berry research program leader at OSU’s North Willamette Research and Extension Center in Aurora.
The partnership is more than 100 years old and is funded by USDA and OSU, which jointly release new berries, Strik said.
“That facilitates adoption of cultivars of commercial significance in the Pacific Northwest,” she said.
“A lot of the berry crops grown here were bred for this region by this program,” Strik said. “Growers are fortunate to have a public breeding program that is so productive.”
Elsewhere, much of the berry breeding work is done by private companies, she said, and the genetic material is not available to the public or to growers who are not contractually obligated to the company.
The partnership has continuity. Strik has been at OSU since 1987; Finn arrived at USDA-ARS in 1992. Finn decides which selections to cross, and has final say on releases. All the advanced berry trials are managed by Strik at North Willamette.
“My number one goal is to help growers produce sustainable yields of high-quality crops,” Strik said. “In a global market, that’s what you need to be able to do.”
It’s a testament to George Waldo that his best work still grows in Oregon’s berry fields, even though change is afoot.
Hood strawberries sell fast at roadside stands and are in demand from ice cream processors. But the variety most commonly planted the past six to eight years is Tillamook, developed by Chad Finn.
Marion blackberry acreage is in slow decline, dipping from 4,500 acres in 2006 to 3,100 acres in 2015. Processors, worried about liability lawsuits, have fretted for years about the Marion’s fierce thorns getting into jams or pies. Growers wish Marions were more cold-hardy; Jim Love said he “didn’t pick a berry” three times in the past due to cane-killing freezes.
Many are planting new thornless trailing blackberries: Black Diamond and Columbia Star, both released by Finn. Love has some of both, and thinks Columbia Star will be a good one, even if the flavor doesn’t quite match the Marion’s.
“Marions are becoming less (prominent), surpassed by cultivars bred by Chad,” said Strik, the OSU berry crops professor. “That’s what you hope happens; you move forward.
“Oregon continues to be known as the premier blackberry growing region in the world,” she said. “It’s a fact.”
After Waldo retired, he moved to Marysville, Wash., which was nicknamed the “Strawberry City.”
In 1970, the American Pomological Society awarded Waldo its Wilder Medal, given to those who have rendered outstanding service to horticulture.
“Special consideration is given,” the society’s website says, “to work relating to the origination and introduction of meritorious varieties of fruit.”
Waldo died Dec. 22, 1985, a Sunday. He was 87. The family asked that memorials be made to his Corvallis church and to Gideons International, for its evangelical work.