USDA exemption, change in Oregon law opens doors for poultry slaughterhouses
By Eric Mortenson
Capital Press
BORING, ORE. — Fernando the rooster is doomed, no way around it. Owner Leslie Standen says the “Latin lover” has been bothering the ladies in her backyard flock and bossing around her other rooster, Henry, who has tenure.
“So my hand-fed rooster is going to be dinner,” she said.
Which is how she and Fernando ended up at Harrington’s Poultry Processing, 25 miles east of Portland.
Harrington’s is one of the old guard in a rapidly growing sector of ag services: Small-scale slaughterhouses either operated by or catering to small farmers. Some also find themselves doing the dirty work for urban hipsters who raise backyard flocks.
A 2011 change in Oregon law freed poultry processors from state licensing if they handle no more than 1,000 birds per year, raise the birds themselves and process them on site. The legislation changed Oregon law to line up with the federal standard, which says producers are exempt from mandatory USDA inspection and can sell uncooked poultry on the farm and at farmers’ markets if they stay below the 1,000-bird threshhold.
“It was the first olive branch to small farmers from the Oregon Legislature,” said Will Fargo, a food safety specialist with the Oregon Department of Agriculture who works with small-scale processors. “It’s one of the greatest success stories for small farmers. It’s allowed a lot of small farmers to get their products to market.”
The ag department now lists more than 30 small on-farm, stand-alone and mobile poultry processors.
The state legislation was intended to provide new economic opportunities for small farms and to increase consumer access to locally produced meat, said Ivan Maluski, director of Friends of Family Farmers, which backed the bill along with the Oregon Farmers’ Market Association.
“I think there is a recognition by ODA and the Legislature that local food, direct-to-consumer sales and small farms are important parts of agriculture in Oregon, and that market demand for this is growing,” Maluski said in an email. “We think that will only increase as time goes on.”
There’s a bigger commercial aspect blossoming as well. Processors such as Harrington’s and Mineral Springs Poultry, in Willamina, Ore., can take advantage of a “small enterprise” USDA exemption that allows them to process up to 20,000 birds annually without having to have an on-site USDA inspector.
Under the exemption, people who have their birds processed at facilities such as Harrington’s or Mineral Springs can then sell them not only at farmers’ markets, but to grocery stores and restaurants as well.
“When I started to do that, that blew the doors wide open,” said Nels Youngberg, owner of Mineral Springs Poultry. “Anybody who raised a few chickens, they could take their birds and go out and sell them. That changed the game plan for a lot of folks.”
Youngberg said about six years ago he increasingly began doing business with new farmers, usually young people with a couple acres, who would bring him a dozen, 20 or 100 chickens at a time for processing. Some are primarily entrepreneurs, looking to create income on the side, while others are deeply concerned about how grocery store food is raised and processed.
“That creates a lot of fear,” Youngberg said. “They find out it’s better to raise their own meat, grow their own vegetables — that’s been a major thrust on it.
“I’ve seen a lot of them come and go, but every year we get somebody new,” he said.
Fargo, of the ODA, agrees. “I think it’s partially the local food movement,” he said. “People are skeptical about raising chickens in a confined environment, they’re concerned about all the things involved with that.”
So far, Oregon’s small processors have operated without food safety problems, he said.
Fargo said he’s received inquiries from four or five other states that are looking for ways to accommodate small farmers and small processors. “It’s absolutely a national thing,” he said.
Proof of that may be the Niche Meat Processors Assistance Network, which shares information among affiliates in 40 states. Lauren Gwin, a small farms and community food systems specialist with Oregon State University Extension, is co-coordinator of the network.
Consumers are interested in pasture-raised poultry, sustainable production methods and humane treatment of farm animals, Gwin said. In addition, occasional salmonella outbreaks at large-scale processing facilities have “given some people pause.”
Despite that, small processors may struggle to transition beyond niche status, she said.
“Let’s be frank, conventional, mainstream meat production is enormous,” Gwin said. “This type of alternative meat … is very, very small. How do you mainstream some of this into more conventional channels?”
But she said some small producers will accomplish that.
“They’re very entrepreneurial,” she said. “These people will figure out where they fit in the market.”
Back at Harrington’s Poultry Processing, owner Scott Ogle makes quick work of Fernando the rooster. Ogle, a wise-cracking third-generation “chicken killer,” places the bird upside down in a “kill cone” and swiftly cuts its throat to bleed him out.
Ogle said he gets a mix of customers, including one who brings him a couple hundred chickens every other week and sells to restaurants.
“I get a lot from in town,” he said. “People bring me roosters because they can’t crow in town.”
A brief soak in hot water, followed by a tumble in a metal drum lined with rubber knobs, removes Fernando’s feathers. The rooster’s head and feet come off with quick chops, and Ogle slides the carcass to assistant Stephanie Morse for final cleaning. Then it’s off to a chilling bath.
By the time owner Leslie Standen returns, Fernando is bagged and ready to go.
“You want your liver, gizzard and heart?” Ogle asks. Standen says she does, and accepts her bagged rooster with mixed feelings.
“Oh,” she says, “I should take him home and bury him instead of eat him.”